Walking pads require maintenance. This includes de-dusting the motor chamber, lubricating the belt and deck, adjusting belt tightness and alignment, cleaning and eventually replacing the drive belt. Failure to keep up results in loud noises, jerky motion, and burning smells.
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See Recommended Walking PadsDust & pet-hair are an enemy to motors, rollers, and bearings. Blow air into the motor carriage - through any vents and openings available - to blow out dust and hair. Do this frequently - at least once a week (I do it every day or two). Use a high RPM electric duster, like WolfBox MF50.
Never stand on the belt when you press start. Starting the motor with your full weight forces it to overcome your inertia from a dead stop, creating a surge of current - locked rotor amperage - that can fry the controller board on cheaper units. Always step onto the side rails, press start, and wait until the belt is moving before stepping on.
For the first use of each day, take it further: run the belt 1-2 minutes at max speed before stepping on. Without this warm-up, you may experience jerky belt motions and squeaking - signs you're stressing the treadmill. This expands the drive belt's ribbing for a better grip on the pulley. You only need this extended warm-up once per day.
Budget mills deal less effectively with heat. To deal with this, reduce the amount of continuous (in one session) walking. I recommend 30-45 minutes of walking, and a 5 minute break (turn off via remote). The occasional hour or two won't kill these machines; but running the belt for 8hrs a day will. I'm a fan of the Pomodoro Technique for focus management. You work for 25 minutes (don't check emails / texts / Slack, nothing - pure hardcore work) and then take a break for 5 minutes to catch up on everything, or just de-steam. This fits perfectly with the treadmill. Work for 25-30, turn it off and go check your texts in the bathroom or whatever for 5 min, repeat.
Every 40 hours or 3 months of use, apply lube in a zig-zag motion under the belt (between belt and pad). Then run the treadmill at 1mph for 2 minutes without walking on it. This reduces friction on the pad, which prevents overworking the motor, which extends the treadmill's life. In my videos I recommended the syringe style; but after much testing, I prefer the unibody style which is less messy. More details.
Silicone lubricant traps dust over time, forming an abrasive sludge that wears down your deck. Before re-lubing, loosen the belt tension and peek underneath. If you see a grey paste buildup, wipe it off with a clean rag. Skipping this step means you're just layering new lube on top of sandpaper.
If the belt starts to drift one way or another, you take an Allen wrench and tighten the side which is too tight / close (not the side with slack). This pulls the belt away from that too-tight side towards the slack side. Think of it as if you created a slope that the belt rolls down. Do quarter turns clock-wise while the belt is running, wait 15 seconds to see if it fixes itself, and do another quarter turn if not (repeat until it's fixed). Then you just leave it - it's something I don't understand, not "undoing" the tightening after the fix, but whatever - you just leave it. This situation happens say once every week or two, is something you do with all the treadmills; necessary evil.
Also! A sloppy belt-adjustment leads to early motor, bearings, or drive-belt failure. It puts too much strain on one side, angles the rolling pin, and causes downstream degradation. Signs of this are jerky motions, squeaking or grinding, and smells. And make sure the belt is not-too-tight, not-too-loose (I'll make a video soon, Google it for now).
Check the front rolling-pin's alignment. Perfect alignment is critical. Even some millimeters off can cause uneven strain and wear on your drive belt, pulley, motor shaft, motor, and bearings. There's often some notch indicating where the pin should align to. But if not, use the "Correct belt drift" section above for how-to.
Many budget pads ship with a narrow drive belt (3-4 ribs) even though the pulley can fit a wider one. More ribs mean more grip, less slippage, and longer life for both the belt and the motor. When you open the case, compare the belt width to the pulley groove. If there's room, order a replacement with more ribs (e.g., J6 instead of J4). It's a $10 upgrade that pays for itself.
Treadmills are needy. Budget mills more than premium. But don't let the internet fool you - LifeSpans die too without proper maintenance, I've seen it plenty. If you want a low-maintenance walking pad, get a manual treadmill. C'est la vie, the maintenance becomes a muscle-memory ritual, and it accounts for most the 5-star and 1-star discrepancy.
Got questions? Post on r/walkingdesks - I check it regularly and answer everything I can.